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DYSFASHIONAL : ADVENTURES IN POST STYLE
DYSFASHIONAL
ADVENTURES IN POST STYLE
Luca Marchetti + Emnuelle Quinz, May 19, 2008
Devoted to fashion, the exhibition Dysfashional does not display clothes. Instead it presents all those materials that make fashion a device for self-representation and identity migration. "Fashion" is a term that nowadays designates merely the garment and its seasonal changes, whereas the phenomenon of fashion in post-modern society has gone beyond the sphere of aesthetics to become a feeling, rhythm, space and much more, a global arrangement for the individual to delegate to his/her constantly changing appearance the capacity to define him/herself. As the sociologist Alberto Abruzzese suggests, fashion might finally be summed up as the acceptance of human mobility. In the title Dys-fashional, the prefix "dys" indicates a disturbance, a discord within the system. The idea at the outset was to verify the dysfunctional dimension of fashion, that is to say, the elements that resist and clash with a "literal" definition of this world, as a simple collection of garments and accessories, as a production system for commercial objects, images and products to do with identity.

Alfredo Piola @ ArtList_Stéphane Delgado & Alexandra
Alfredo Piola @ ArtList_Stéphane Delgado & Alexandra
 
The idea was therefore to turn the principles upside down and invite fashion designers to present, not their collections, but installations expressing their own world, their imagination. In the various galleries at the mudac Hussein Chalayan, Jean Colonna & Jeff Burton, Hiroaki Ohya, Maison Martin Margiela, Antonio Marras, Grit & Jerszy Seymour, SHOWstudio, Raf Simons, Sissel Tolaas and Gaspard Yurkievich construct with their settings, objects and films a complex, plural background in which fashion appears, over and above the objects that make it material, rather like a building site for experimentation or a still developing state of sensibility. Each offering claims to be an adventure that goes beyond familiar territory, the highly regulated system of fashion but also the concept of style and the interplay of images and identities, in the search for an experience of the Other. A hybrid space, Para-Site, something between building site, gallery and concept store, will be entirely devoted to emerging artists and designers who are exploring the frontiers of contemporary fashion. It is inserted like a cell that allows one to see specific objects that are intended, among other things, for sale (in the museum shop). Para-Site is a point of "contamination" between creation and commerce in the spirit of a laboratory.

Raf Simons_Repeat, 1995-2005_Collection Fondazione Pitti Discovery_Francesco Guazzelli_André Morin
Raf Simons_Repeat, 1995-2005_Collection Fondazione Pitti Discovery_Francesco Guazzelli_André Morin
 
The design by Bless for Para-Site is not just a guarantee of structural unity in this space. It functions as a manifesto of the process shaping the fusion (confusion?) of images and objects. Finally, one room will be transformed into a lounge, placing at the disposal of visitors a programme of videos (art and dance) and fashion publications that can be consulted on the spot, in partnership with the festival Colophon and the fashion-film festival You Wear it Well organised by Diane Pernet and Dino Dinco. DYSFASHIONAL was previously presented at La Rotonde 1 in Luxembourg, within the framework of the event Luxembourg European Capital of Culture 2007, from 21 April to 27 May 2007. For this second stage, all the pieces in the exhibition have been rethought for the more intimate gallery spaces of the mudac, in a pared-down and reactivated layout.

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